Start by figuring out what kind of car I want. Sedans? SUVs? Something sporty? Once I’ve got that nailed down, I start getting into what those cars are actually worth.
Websites like Kelley Blue Book or Edmunds are my best buddies here. I punch in the make, model, year, mileage, and condition, and boom—I’ve got a ballpark price range.
But I don’t stop there. I hop onto sites like Autotrader or Craigslist to see what people are asking for similar rides in my area.
Prices can swing wildly depending on where you live, so I make sure I’m looking local.
If a car’s been sitting on the lot or in someone’s driveway for a while, I know they might be itching to sell.
That’s leverage, my friend, and I tuck it in my back pocket for later.
Researching the Specific Car
Once I’ve got my eye on a particular car, I take it up a notch.
I run the VIN (that’s the Vehicle Identification Number, usually found on the dashboard or driver’s side door) through a service like Carfax or AutoCheck.
It’s like a background check for cars—tells me if it’s been in a wreck, had major repairs, or has a sketchy title.
I once dodged a total bullet when I found out a “great deal” had been totaled twice.
No thanks! Knowing the car’s history gives me ammo to push for a lower price if there’s anything funky in its past.
Set Your Budget (And Stick to It)
I sit down, crunch some numbers, and decide what I can comfortably afford—factoring in stuff like insurance, taxes, and maybe a few bucks for unexpected repairs.
Used cars aren’t brand-new, after all; they’ve got character, and sometimes that character comes with a squeaky brake or two.
Here’s where I get real with myself.
If my budget’s $15,000, I’m not even sniffing around cars listed at $18,000, hoping they’ll drop magically.
I aim lower, say, cars listed at $13,000 or $14,000—so I’ve got room to haggle up without busting my limit. Dealers and sellers love to test your resolve, so I stick to my guns.
If the price isn’t right, I politely say, “Thanks, but it’s not in my range,” and head for the door.
You’d be amazed how often that turns things around. I once had a dealer chase me down with a $1,500 discount because I didn’t flinch.
They don’t want to lose a sale, and I don’t want to overpay. Win-win.
Timing Your Move Like a Pro
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Late in the month is prime time dealers are scrambling to hit sales quotas, and private sellers might be antsy to unload before another payment’s due.
I also love shopping in the off-season. Nobody’s rushing to buy a convertible in December, so I swoop in when demand’s low and sellers are more flexible.
Weekdays work better than weekends, too. On a Tuesday afternoon, I’m not fighting a crowd and the salesperson’s got time to chat (and maybe cut a deal).
One rainy Monday, I scored a truck for $2,000 less than the asking price because I was the only one brave enough to show up. The weather’s your friend—use it!
I pay attention to how the seller is acting. Are they fidgety? Desperate to move the car? Or cool as a cucumber?
A private seller once told me he “just wanted it gone” because he’d already bought a new ride.
I offered $500 below his ask, and he took it on the spot. Dealers are trickier they’re pros at playing it chill, but if they’re quick to counter my offer, I know there’s wiggle room.
Making the First Offer
If a car’s listed at $12,000, I might open with $10,000—low, but not insultingly so. I base it on my research and the car’s condition.
My tone’s friendly but firm: “Hey, I love the car, but based on what I’ve seen, I’m thinking $10,000. What do you say?” It’s an invitation to negotiate, not a showdown.
Sellers usually counter, and that’s fine, I expect it. If they say $11,500, I might bump up to $10,500 and see where it lands. I keep my cool, no rush, no pressure.
The key? I don’t fall in love with the car. There’s always another one out there, and I remind myself of that every step of the way.
Sometimes sellers dig in their heels. “That’s the best I can do,” they’ll say. I don’t sweat it.
I ask questions instead: “What’s keeping the price up there? Any repairs I should know about?” It keeps the convo flowing and might reveal something, like a recent fix they’re proud of but overvaluing.
If they won’t budge and it’s above my budget, I thank them and bounce. No hard feelings.
Inspecting the Car Like a Detective
Before I negotiate hard, I give the car a once-over. I checked the tires—uneven wear could mean alignment issues.
Rust under the hood or on the frame? Red flag.
I start the engine, listen for weird noises, and take it for a spin.
Does it pull to one side? Hesitate when I hit the gas? That’s all bargaining power.
If I’m not sure, I bring a car-savvy buddy or pay for a pro inspection. One time, a $50 mechanic check saved me from a $1,200 transmission fix.
I told the seller, “Look, I like it, but that repair’s gonna cost me. Can we knock $800 off?” They met me halfway, and I still came out ahead.
Closing the Deal
@mattdeter Car Salesman shows how he delivers the numbers to a customer #carsalesman #dealershiplife #carsales #salesman ♬ original sound – MattDeterSellsCars
I recap my offer: “So, $10,800, out the door, with the paperwork done today, sound good?” “Out the door” means no sneaky fees, and “today” pressures them to say yes.
If they hesitate, I might sweeten it with, “I can pay cash right now,” assuming I’ve got it ready. Cash talks, folks.
I read every line seriously, every line, to dodge hidden charges.
One dealer tried slipping in a $300 “prep fee.” I called it out, and they dropped it fast.
Sign, shake hands, and I’m driving off, grinning like I just won the lottery.